Before we start, I posted two examples of my skin textures in my
gallery:
http://www.hash.com/stills/index.php?cat=13313
Feel free
to use these textures however you like.
Now, if you'd like to start from
scratch here is my process:
1. Pick a color in Master that you want to
use as your skin color, and write down the RGB values, so that you can get the
exact same color in photoshop. If you set this color as the default surface
color of your model, then if you don't decal some areas of your model, then the
borders of your decal stamps won't be that noticeable.
2. Make a new
photoshop file, and fill the bottom layer with the RGB color you picked in
Master. The size of this document will depend on how close you want to see the
texture in 3D. In my case, I have four main textures for my character. One for
the face (1000x1000), one for the torso and legs together (600x1000), and one
for the arms (800x400). However, just make your texture according to how you
flatten your model.
3. If you look at the gray skin texture file that I
posted, you'll notice that it is a repeating pattern. I made it by making a
poka-dot pattern first (for skin pores), then connecting many of the pores
together by hand with the brush tool in a mostly horizontal direction. This part
takes some trial and error, because visually you want to have an even, overall
feel - no area should be lighter or darker than any other when you zoom back
from it, or it will look weird when used in 3D.
3. ALTERNATIVE - if this
drives you crazy, and you can just make monocromatic pixel noise with a filter,
and stretch it horizontally. This gives a similar look, but its kind of
generic.
- Around this time, you can bring in a screen capture of your
flattened mesh as a reference if you need to specialize the flow of skin
wrinkles to your model.
4. Once your done, copy this gray pattern layer
that you made onto 2 new layers. Set one of these layers as Luminousity, and the
other as Color. Having these two layers will give you more precise control over
the contrast, and color of the skin separately. Drag the opacity slider for each
layer down to anywhere from 3% to 20%, depending on how it looks to you. If you
look at my color skin texture example compared to the gray one, you can barely
see the pattern in it. On your Color layer, use the Curves window, or some other
color adjustment tool to make the light pixels more blueish-green, and the dark
pixels more reddish. This will give it a slightly realistic look, but again, is
very subtle because the layer is only about 3% to 7% visible.
5. OPTIONAL
- you can add another layer of (much) larger blothes (again red/green opposites)
set to about 3% opacity, to add some more variation to the texture if you
like.
6. Once you've tweaked the layer opacities until you're happy, save
a copy of this file, and flatten it. Desaturate the texture to generate your
bump, specularity, and reflection maps, if you need them.
Thats it!
If you have any questions regarding this process, please post them
here.
Good luck!!
I never thought this day would come.
Noah Brewer, I salute you.
Dude,
This may come
in handy with the character I am working on now - I expected to put in about 13
hours doing the skin tone, even if I just follow your instructions and do it
myself it will be a time saver. Much thanks -
Thank you Noah
Thanks for the tute Noah... I'll save it in my 'Tutorial Archive'.
Thank you, so much Noah. Your work is among many that I show to friends who
are 'curious' about A:M.
Usually, they're response is "That was made in A:M?!
Your kidding?" <Sigh>
Anyway... thanks again...
My pleasure. This forum is a wonderful!
And sorry for the typos in my
posts; I try to correct them when I notice them, but sometimes I don't...
Thanks!
Wow! That's some really good pics you created!
Thanks for the tute..
man this place is a gold mine of info for beginniers like me.
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